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Urban Growth: Local food defies recession

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It takes a special brand of bravery to climb a teetering ladder onto a second story rooftop. It takes an even braver person to do it three times a week with a bucket full of water in one hand.


For Ben Fishman, KU student and downtown Lawrence resident, it's not bravery that compels him, but thrift. Ever since the economy took its downturn, Fishman, like many other students, has been looking for easy and fun ways to pinch pennies. For him a rooftop garden was the answer.


"I eat a lot of produce and after a while buying it from the grocery store can add up, this just seemed like an entertaining way to save money and still eat right," said Fishman.

Local Vegetables
Locally grown vegetables at the Community Mercantile.
Photo by Jake


Local gardening has made a revival in Lawrence. Thanks to the recession, more and more people are realizing how easy and affordable it can be to grow their own produce. The agricultural awakening hasn't been limited to individuals. Restaurants and business owners are all finding ways of using gardening to help evade the pains of the economy. Gardens of all sizes can be found around downtown if one knows where to look. Even for those who aren't blessed with a green thumb, fresh, affordable, locally grown produce is lining the shelves all over town.


The management at Tellers was quick to find ways to save money. At the beginning of last year when the recession was just on the horizon, they decided that because of the popularity of their infamous Margherita pizza, growing their own basil would be an easy way to cut costs. "We knew basil would be the plant to focus on, we use it in so many dishes and we always seem to be running out of it", said Shawn Miller executive chef.


Local businesses avoid the sting of recession by growing and using local produce.

Located atop their 9th and Mass. rooftop are six large black tubs, each brimming with herbs and spices. Beyond the initial investment in supplies, sprouts and dirt the only other expense is their monthly water bill. All of their hard work paid off, and now Tellers has access to an ample supply of fresh, organic, and most importantly affordable basil.


Not all of Lawrence's growth is above street level. Community gardens throughout town are making a big impact for some local businesses. Jim Grimes owner of Headmaster Salon has been the driving force behind the garden that sits next to his shop at 8th and Vermont.


View Community Gardens in Lawrence in a larger map

The once vacant lot, which belongs to former mayor Bob Schumm, was revamped 2 years ago. Grimes spearheaded the project along with his partner at Headmaster Lee Heeter and friend Josh Millstein who manages the Casbah Market. To the three the garden is more of a hobby than a means of living, but the three have noticed how the garden has helped Lawrencians keep eating well even when times get tough.


Most of the produce that is harvested from the Vermont St. garden is sold at the Casbah Market. The business prides itself on organic, locally grown vegetables sold at an affordable price. The increased flow of produce out of the garden has helped the shop cut down its costs and Millstein passes the savings onto his customers. "When we have stuff coming out of the garden we can price it lower and people like it" said Millstein.


Don't Have a Yard for a Garden?
Make your own for less than $50
Here's How...

  • Supplies:
  1. Shipping Pallet (Check alleyways) $0
  2. Burlap sheet $5
  3. Hammer and Nails $10
  4. Fertile Soil $15
  5. Seeds or Sprouts $15-$20
  • What you need to do:
  1. Flip the pallet upside down
  2. Lay the burlap loosely over the gaps.
  3. Secure tightly it to the pallet with the nails
  4. Fill the gaps with soil
  5. Plant your seeds/sprouts in rows
  6. Water often and make sure it has sunlight
  7. Repeat step 6 and watch your garden grow

Organic food has a bad reputation for being overpriced. That's a false stereotype according to Patrick Hangauer Casbah employee, " Organic food still has the stigma of being expensive, but when you incorporate the local factor in it, it actually ends up being really inexpensive because you're not having to throw in the traveling costs and all the gas prices." Local contributors like the community gardens allow shops like the Casbah to offer Lawrencians who aren't able to tend their own garden a way to eat healthy and save money at the same time.


The Casbah isn't the only store that focuses on locally grown food. The Community Mercantile at 9th and Iowa has been doing it since 1974. While the Merc offers a wider range of produce than the Casbah, because they are a larger store they are not able to offer the same bargains.


 Items at the Merc are comparatively priced, meaning that an item from an organic farm in California will often be priced the same as the same item that is locally grown. The difference lies in where the money goes. A higher percentage of the locally owned sale will go to the farmer, while the imported item will devote more of the profits to the shipping. Shopping at the Merc still supports local businesses but if beating the economy is the goal, there are better ways.

The recession has made everyone more money conscious. However for people who aren't ready to start sacrificing the quality of their food and want to support their city, there's still hope. Summer's almost over and growing season is running short. For anyone who wants an inexpensive source of fresh produce now is the time to start working. If the responsibility of a garden seems like too heavy a burden to bear, fresh, affordable produce is only a storefront away.

A.B.'s Crepe Shop and the Diner Revival

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            A family of six slowly squeezes through the bright red door of A.B.'s Crepe Shop. They're immediately greeted with a warm welcome that breaks the hypnotic smell of the frying batter that's filling the air.

 

            Three generations shuffle past the register and in two strides they've reached the back wall. Even though there's only two other people in the restaurant they quickly realize there's hardly enough room for them to stand, let alone eat. 

 

            It's 97 degrees outside and nearly all the food at A.B.'s is served hot, but the family doesn't think twice about the heat and with eager smiles they offer to sit out front. 

 

            It's obvious that the most collegiate of the bunch, like many of A.B.'s customers, is a regular to the shop. He also happens to be the namesake of one of A.B.'s most popular dishes, the Jason. However his family's easy-going behavior is not because of his mild culinary celebrity, in fact it's the norm at A.B.'s. 

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The easily overlooked storefront of A.B.'s Crepe Shop Photo by Jake


            Despite the unusually cramped conditions most people feel right at home at A.B's, which for the past five years has been redefining how to run a successful business. The restaurant has an atmosphere that's seldom seen in modern times, one that's founded on a small group of dedicated employees and the belief that patrons are not simply customers but rather guests to be treated like family. The road to this prized ambience has been long and difficult for A.B. Rials Jr., the owner and operator of the eponymous shop. Since the restaurant opened he's kept three other jobs while enduring everything from the economic difficulties of starting a small business to lingering racism. All the while he has persevered with unparalleled integrity and unbreakable good spirits.

 

Getting to Know A.B.

 

            A.B. grew up in north Lawrence in the 1950s, a time when small mom and pop diners were more common. "Lawrence taught people a unique way of living...we do business like our grandfathers did," says Dave Nichols owner of M&M bakery and childhood friend of A.B. Oliver Hall, an employee at the crepe shop continues, "it's a little tiny restaurant where you know the cook and he cooks really well and he knows all these stories and he talks to you, he goes back to that tradition."

 

            The size of A.B.'s crepe shop is described at best as cozy and at worst congested. According to A.B. this wasn't by design, "It wasn't planned, this was just the only place I could get at the time." As it happened the intimacy of the space turned out to be a happy accident. The layout of the shop puts A.B. right in front where he can converse with customers as opposed to being locked away in a backroom kitchen. Hall attributes the restaurants success to this unique atmosphere, "[People are] starting to look for not only a better bargain, but something more human, something more personal, some place where people can talk, where people can converse and you know one another."

 

            The restaurant is only open for a total of 24 hours a week, and while it might seem like so few hours would make the businesses' survival a challenge, the years have proven the opposite. "We've worked it out that during the school year the best way to have it is just weekends...I've got too much stuff to do ...I could be doing something else [when the store slow]" says A.B.

 

            A.B.'s work ethic is relentless, and although the restaurant is his main endeavor he also works three other jobs. He is a chef for the Phi Kappa Tao fraternity during the school year, and he runs his own catering operation, as well as contracting bread for M&M bakery six days a week. Needless to say he has a very tight schedule, but the rigor of his daily life hasn't broken his spirit in the slightest. "I figure when I get up in the morning and don't want to come down here, I won't," he says.

 

            It doesn't look like that will happen anytime soon. For the past 30 years cooking has been a passion for A.B. but it first became his profession when he began working at the café in the Riverfront mall before it shut down. It was here he learned how the industry usually works. "I started out as a cook and left as a general manager...and I noticed that whole time...that nobody really cares about the customers...you just do your job and be polite," said A.B. These experiences had a deep impact on him and in 2004 when he decided to try his hand as a restaurant owner A.B. knew he didn't want anybody working for him who had an attitude like that.

 

            However, A.B.'s mentalities don't only apply to his employees. According to Hall A.B. is not a typical boss, "If I'm busy in the back A.B. will go and serve people their food... he doesn't wait for his employees to do it, or snap his fingers of any of that...where can you go where an owner will get down there in the trenches with you and help?"

 

Overcoming Adversity

 

            In Lawrence, being an African-American business owner put A.B. among a select crowd. It was this fact that first drew in Oliver Hall, who's an independent filmmaker and owns his own production company. Hall has worked at the restaurant for two and a half years and shares a deep bond with A.B. because they've both have felt a certain degree of prejudice in Lawrence when it comes to managing their businesses. When asked about this A.B. simply replied, "It gets really tough, there's a lot of blind racism in this town that I've noticed, that's just the way it is, I've accepted it." Because of this the two seem to support each others efforts, for example when Hall premiered his documentary entitled "Greensburg Rebuilds" at liberty hall, A.B. catered the event with entirely organic food to go with the green theme of the evening.

           

            With the combination of a ceaseless work ethic and a unique attitude toward customer care A.B. seems have found the recipe for success. The foundation of which is built upon extremely devoted clientele. "I've got this one guy who came in today, he's the most loyal customer we have, he's been coming in [ever since] the second week we were open...I started opening on holidays because of him and a couple other customers we have. I'll even open up on Christmas for this guy" says A.B.

 

            It's these loyal customers that help A.B. endure the hard times that come with operating any small business. According to Hall, 'The only time he'll probably be done is when he wants to retire, other than that he has his clientele that will come back forever." This clientele allowed A.B. to keep developing his business even when he had little or no money. It's all because the people know him and they trust him.

 

            The trust that keeps A.B.'s customers coming back only came as a result of the trust he puts in his customers. However it's partly because of the restaurants' modest size that he's able to be flexible enough to earn it. When people come into his restaurant with no money and offer to pay him as soon as they get cash. He is able to do them the favor for them and say yes. According to Hall, "All of the students who he's let slide, have come back and paid, not one has ever cheated him."

 

            The idea is that these people have simply fallen on hard times, and when A.B. helps them by cooking them a more affordable portion, or advancing them a meal, they come back and help him when they can. He claims that because of this incredible clientele he's built, the recession didn't hit him nearly as hard as some other businesses in town.

 

Building Community

 

            Yet, if there's one character trait that seems to permeate everything A.B. does it's his unwavering integrity. He has a genuine interest in each of his customers. "He actually cares about people, he knows a lot of people's kids names and puts their art on the wall, and some of the drawing is horrible, [laughs] but he doesn't care" Hall said.

 

            It's simple things like this, which separate A.B.'s from any other chain restaurant, the shops' aesthetic is based around the community and because he accepts it so wholeheartedly the shop has become somewhat of a place for the community get together.

 

            A weekly frequenter of A.B.'s, Ben Fishman said that when he goes to the restaurant he doesn't feel like just a customer. "I never hesitate to sit and chat with whoever else is in the restaurant after I eat. At first I was blown away that no one ever came over and asked me to leave to free up the table. You really feel like part of a family when you're there" he said.

 

            In a time when most business owners are growing more and more concerned with the bottom line, A.B. remains steadfast. When asked how he feels about expanding his business to increase his profits he responds lightheartedly, "I'm basically just trying to keep it real, real realistic." Eternally earnest he realizes that what he really has going for him isn't just great food at low prices. It's a passion to put the humanity and the community back into dining.

 

 

 

 

            

Vacancies Downtown: Permits are the Problem

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         The Tribal masks lining the walls of The Global Café peer curiously down behind the coffee bar as owner Rafael Abrante prepares food for the lone customer in his restaurant. It's still early but Abrante has already been up for hours readying his kitchen for another long day of business.


            The worldly décor furnishing the whole of the restaurant is no accident; most of it is left over merchandise from Abrante's last commercial endeavor. "I used to have a store next door called Kimbari" said Abrante "It sold African art and woven baskets." When he decided to change locations and try his hand at the restaurant business, the masks on the wall and the overall exotic theme carried on, however not all parts of the transition were as smooth.

 

            For many eager entrepreneurs in Lawrence like Abrante the process of starting a business downtown can be daunting. The city's system for inspecting and ushering in new businesses is notoriously complex and drawn out, it can become a maze of expensive permit applications and long delays. The sharp rise in commercial vacancies downtown has left some parts of Massachusetts street looking nearly desolate. With such convoluted requirements for new business owners the storefronts may stay empty longer than expected.

IMG_3346.JPG
Blue Heron Home Furnishings (photo by Jake)

           

The Process


            When reflecting on his changeover to the food industry Abrante recalls the process he went through, "It's just a lot of steps to get from point A to point B and it can be a lot easier, It's just paperwork." While this paperwork is essential to meeting national building codes and safety regulations, the system that business owners are required to navigate can delay their stores from opening for months. It's this idle period that appears to be the most frustrating for the aspiring businessman. "They charge you for every piece of paper and you end up paying a lot of money" said Abrante. Business owners are required to abstain from any construction until all the paperwork is sorted and building permits are approved. In The Global Café's case, Abrante was delayed six months before he was issued "the little yellow sign" that allowed him to begin renovations.

 

            The system's unnecessarily slow pace has a larger implication than simply potential business lost. "It was a bad experience because I was paying rent...I was loosing money," said Abrante. The lengthy process leaves store owners idle with bills to pay and no incoming revenue. Abrante made it clear that this situation is not the exception but rather the rule when he said, "I don't think I'm the only one [who has had this problem]."

 

             Unfortunately, the city does have a reputation for being unusually slow about processing applications and issuing permits. When asked about this problem Vice mayor and city commissioner Mike Amyx said, "I know that there's a lot of questions [ about] the number of things [business owners] have to do to get into business downtown. I'm planning on looking at some of those things...we shouldn't make it so complicated and so expensive just to get into business."

 

             Abrante discovered that building codes are another hurdle that business owners must jump before they can open their doors. Depending on the nature of the business, in this case food service, some storeowners are required to complete heavy construction projects in order to abide by building codes. In Abrante's case it was installing an additional bathroom, "I made a new bathroom because the code said [I had to], not by choice." This forced construction ended up costing him around $1,000 and further delayed his grand opening. 

 

             With such burdensome obligations to the city, it's not hard to believe that some potential storeowners might be apprehensive to about starting a new business in Lawrence. "When you decide you want to open a business [you have to ask yourself] what are the permits, and there are tons," said Abrante. This problem has not gone unnoticed by city officials, "We need to look into some of those things and make sure that the requirements we're having aren't deterring business from coming into downtown," said Amyx. 

 

The Economy

 

              The difficulties involved in establishing a business are a massive problem in themselves however there's other factors at work according to Amyx, "The economics of today probably have a lot to play in it." The current recession has left many with tighter budgets than they're used to, as a result people are less willing to risk large the amounts of money involved in owning and operating a retail business. The inefficiency of the permit process and the potential for six months of rent with no incoming revenue is a major deterrent for potential storeowners. 

                  

            With such obstacles it seems no surprise that so many storefronts are vacant in the downtown area. Yet, according to Amyx this is nothing new, "One of the things I see is that downtown goes through lots of changes from time to time. You'll see a turn over periodically." However, Amyx noticed a unique quality this time, "I don't think we've seen what I would consider the amount of big spaces [turning over]." Stores like Arensberg's and Blue Herron Home Furnishings are both casualties of this latest turnover, but according to Amyx that there are already interested parties looking at the spaces.

           

The Future

 

            Amyx shows little concern over the loss of so many retailers, he seems to understand the ebb and flow of the local market and is content to let it run its course. "The value of the real estate we have down here and the taxes the business owners have to pay through their rents makes this a pretty expensive place to do business. But at the same time it's a place where a lot of people are drawn to, so it works pretty well" said Amyx. His faith in Lawrence's ability to bounce back appears unwavering, "Downtown is a place where a lot of new businesses want to be, and with that said downtown is very successful, it's not only a retail and entertainment center it's our town square...there's a lot of activity." Amyx continues, "If you have a good product to sell, you should be able to do very well downtown"


Acme T-shirts buck the trend

 

            According to Amyx, "The market generally takes care of itself down here." Only time will tell if his optimism is well founded or naïve. However, it doesn't seem unlikely when downtown Lawrence is home to store owners like Rafael Abrante, who when asked if he would go through the whole lengthy process again replied, "Yeah sure, what other options do I have?"

 

            

            Many people who walk down Eighth Street would hardly notice the unimposing storefront discreetly nestled between Henry's Cafe and Richard's Music Company, but on this particular evening Solidarity is buzzing with life. Lawrence's own radical lending library and community space is occupied by a group of nine students and like-minded locals who make up the core of Solidarity's collective, and they are meeting to determine the next steps it will take. 

IMG_3335.JPG
New Storefront of Solidarity! Photo courtesy of Jake Lerman

 

            Historically, Lawrence is deeply rooted in the unconventional. Solidarity epitomizes that spirit and exists as a vital resource for anyone in the community interested in alternative sources of information and local organizing. The collective is at a crucial point, they must either adapt and flourish or be resigned to a shadow of their current self. With economic pressures mounting and resources declining Solidarity is relying on donor support to keep them in business.

 

            Solidarity currently has 25 volunteers that make up the entirety of its staff, there are no paid positions and everyone donates as much time as they are able. The number of members and subsequently the number of donations has recently dropped as long time volunteers have moved away. According to Ashley Depenbusch, a veteran volunteer, this is a new phenomenon, "Solidarity has finally reached a point where if one member leaves the collective doesn't collapse, but it's still a fragile organization." 

 

            One of the fundamental issues Solidarity faces is an internal conflict between the ideals of the collective, and the realties involved in operating a business. Because many of the volunteers are anarchists there is a resistance to the traditional hierarchy involved in managing an organization. Their answer to this clash is that the positions at Solidarity are rotating, and there is no traditional "boss". All decisions are made by way of discussion and all members with a "vested interest" in Solidarity have the ability to "block" any decision. This process can become lengthy and strained and in recent months the collective has been focusing on developing this infrastructure.

 

            Over the span of its near decade long tenure in Lawrence, Solidarity has had many different incarnations. The organization was founded in 2001 as The Mother Earth Collective Library and was run out of a house in the Oread neighborhood. It later changed its name to The Black Cat Collective before moving into a commercial space downtown and making a final name change to Solidarity! Revolutionary Center and Radical Library.  


            Solidarity recently changed its location again from the 1100 block of Massachusetts street to their new location on 8th street just off Mass. The change in venue was spurred partly by a desire to increase foot traffic to the shop, but primarily by the need for a lower rent. However even at their new address they are finding it difficult to make their payments on time.




View Larger Map

             Previous Location of Solidarity! Courtesy of Google Maps


              During the meeting the notion of yet another move to a new site outside of the downtown area was brought up. This would prove to be a difficult task seeing as they hold a lease that runs through next march. However pending a sub lessee and a suitable alternative, many of the volunteers were excited about the idea of devoting more funds to programs and less to bills.  

 

            Unlike the other stores in Lawrence, Solidarity doesn't sell anything. Any of the thousands of books lining the walls, nearly all of which have been donated, are available to everyone. Solidarity also has many other services it offers the community, ranging from free Internet and occasional free food, to live events and a variety of support groups, all of which are completely free. The majority of the founders and current members of Solidarity have firm beliefs in anti-capitalist ideals, meaning they believe no one should be turned away from information, valuable services or events due to a lack of funds. This has been a major obstacle for the collective.

 

            One of Solidarity's most precious resources is found tucked away in the back of the shop, their copy machine. Solidarity boasts one of the most extensive "Zine" collections in the Midwest, numbering over 5000 the topics range from animal rights and vegetarianism to workers rights and gender issues. Anyone who provides their own paper is able to print out copies of this information to distribute, making Solidarity akin to a subversive publishing house offering information that is unavailable anywhere else in Lawrence. This service doesn't come cheap; Solidarity pays a hefty $140 per month to maintain this essential machine. 

 

            The majority of the collective's meetings center on finances. Because Solidarity has no steady stream of income they rely heavily on donations and fundraising efforts, which fluctuate month to month. However the current economic crisis has made their uphill battle even more difficult. Jenn Hunt a Solidarity volunteer said, "The struggle has been to keep the place open." With long time supporters feeling the sting of the recession, Solidarity's donor list has shrunk and the remaining contributions have become few and far between.

 

            But money worries are nothing new for the collective according to Depenbusch, making rent has always been a struggle for Solidarity. Strangely, one thing that has helped keep them afloat throughout the years is college students steady consumption of alcohol. Sarah Madden, Solidarity's current "treasurer", said in regards to this trend, " [drinking] is not something that dies down in a poor economy."

 

            The way Solidarity turns collegiate partying into cash is by recycling. They go to events where a lot of waste produced and a team of dedicated volunteers sift through piles of refuse for precious aluminum cans, which are in-turn sold to recycling companies for a fair price. They make a large portion of their income through this type of environmental fundraising.

 

            Still, the recession has taken its toll on the collective and the effects are clearly visible in the programs that Solidarity was forced to abandon. One useful resource Solidarity was forced to cut was their prisoner support program. This program offered legal advice to incarcerated Lawrencians by way of a hotline run out of the shop. However due to high bills they were forced to disconnect the line. They have also had to cut back on the amount of free food they can offer during their Robin Hood food distribution events because of the high cost. 


            The recession hasn't stopped Solidarity from hosting live events; in recent weeks the collective has put on a poetry slam, a movie night in the community garden, and numerous concerts with local and touring acts. Unfortunately these events have shown a trend of meager donations, in part because many people in Lawrence simply don't know anything about Solidarity and never even hear about many of the events they put on. 


            Solidarity seems to attract a diverse group of patrons, with the majority being students, East Lawrence locals, and much of the homeless population. It's difficult to find a passionate "customer" at Solidarity because often times enthusiastic visitors soon become a part of the collective.

 

            According to Volunteer coordinator Shona Clarkson, part of what draws many people to the info shop is that "it's run by you." What she means is that there is no third party corporation dictating the programs or the rules of the collective, because it is completely volunteer owned and operated it has much more freedom in its direction, which separates Solidarity from the other non-profit organizations in Lawrence such as Link, or Penn House. 

 

            Madden believes that what keeps people interested in Solidarity is that unlike the other non-profits in town, it's heavily geared toward intellectualism, specifically subversive information that is difficult to find elsewhere. According to Madden, Solidarity acts as the glue for active members of Lawrence who don't want to learn passively.

  

            Meanwhile, despite its best intentions the collective is still struggling to find the money it needs to survive. They are still paying off back rent to their previous landlord, and are scraping for their current bills. With only $500 currently in the Solidarity bank account Madden had this to say, "We'll have July's rent, but August..."