Lawrence farmers are in a debate over
organic certification. Local farmers and their customers have many different
attitudes about how their produce is grown.
Certified organic produce offers
advantages to customers' health but not always to small farmers' wallets. For
other customers, organic certification isn't a concern.
Organic certification is a label given by
the USDA to produce grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. There
are strict regulations and a detailed process that a farmer must follow in
order to receive their certification. Certified organic produce is usually sold
for a higher price at market, but some small farmers disagree on the value.
Farmers choose to obtain organic
certification for many different reasons. Jill Elmers has been selling at the
Lawrence Farmer's Market for nine years. She has always been chemical-free but
was just certified six months ago.
"I think the certification is something
people understand," Elmers said. "It's regulated by the USDA. However, I know that
means a lot of hoops to jump through."
Elmers
said the main perk to certification is that she can sell her produce for a
higher price. Becoming certified organic was also a personal goal of Elmers.
One major deterrent for many small
farmers is the cost of organic certification.
Owner
of Hoyland Farm Bob Lominska was certified from 1994 until last year. He said
he didn't see the point in certification anymore.
"There just really isn't a good reason for people to be
certified on a small scale," Lominska said. "It's really expensive and takes a
lot of work."
He said he'd prefer to buy from friends
that he knows grow well. Buying local, chemical-free produce that isn't
necessarily certified organic is a better option.
The
question of cost for organic certification is a difficult one to answer. After
talking to many farmers, certified and not, and scouring the USDA Web site there's
still not an exact answer.
The USDA is in charge of organic
certification and the United States actually has some of the most extensive
legislation for organic farming. Statistics
show, however, that the United States isn't ahead in terms of organic land
hectarage.
Another difficulty with organic
certification is that, according
to a report by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension, the USDA does not
regulate fees for certification. The USDA regulates the certified label, but not how much it
costs to obtain it. The costs vary depending on the agency and farmer uses for
their inspections.
Growers must hire independent certifiers or
certifying agencies for inspections. Some certifiers charge a flat rate based
on acreage and some charge a base fee and then charge an assessment based on
sales. Both fee structures are intended to make it scale-specific so a small
operation is not charged the same as a large operation.
Certification for small farms can run anywhere from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand. Lominska owns 69 acres and paid $750 a year to have his land certified. This may not seem an outrageous price, but statistics show that the incomes of many small farmers make this price just out of reach.
Source of Farmer's Income
Not only the farmers are having problems
with the cost of certified organic. Rose Huggins has shopped at the Farmer's
Market for over 30 years. She said she didn't pay much attention certification.
"I'm
at an age where I should be paying more attention to what I'm putting into my
body," Huggins said. "But it's very expensive."
She said she came for the fresh, local
food and because she knew where it came from.
Aside from the costs of certification, many farmers
have trouble understanding the the complex process. This is another deterrent for many
farmers who don't want to spend hours searching through regulations and legal
jargon.
Crop
farms have a list of very specific requirements to be certified. The major
requirement is three years with no application of prohibited materials such as,
synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or Genetically Modified Organisms. They also
have to keep detailed tabs on everything they use and their overall plan for
their farm. This is difficult for small farmers because in between extensive
paperwork they also have to grow their crops.
After
a grower's first certification, the process doesn't end. Farmers continue paying fees, hosting inspections and
filling out paperwork every year.
Margaret Tran, the University of Kansas coordinator
of E.A.R.T.H., said the root of the
problem with organic certification for small farms is that the system is set up
to marginalize them.
"The
process of certification is set up for large farms and that can be seen in all
the paperwork," Tran said. "We need to level the playing field between the two
if it's going to work for the consumer's benefit."
The Merc, 901 Iowa St., carries organic,
chemical-free and conventional produce from local and not local farms. Produce
Manage Linda Cowden said that many of her customers only eat organic food.
Cowden said the Merc tries to buy as much
local produce as it can. However, because local farmers can only produce for
three months in the summer, only eight percent of the year's produce is local.
She said there are some other
difficulties with buying produce from small farms. One small farm may not have
the quantity a store needs so it's necessary to work with multiple farms.
Cowden said she works with 25 to 30 farms a season.
"It is easier to get it all from one
place and not put the puzzle together," Cowden said. "But it depends on the
level of commitment to do the extra work, to make it happen and to support the
local farmer."
For a farmer to sell to the Merc, they
must have at least one industry standard case of produce, Cowden said. For
example, an industry standard case of cucumbers is 20 pounds and an industry
standard case of lettuce is 24 bunches.
If farmers aren't growing enough to sell
at the Merc, they have to find other options. Because most chain grocery stores
don't buy local produce, many farmers find themselves at the Farmer's Market.
There is an extra cost there as well with a minimum fee of $60 per season.
Barbara Clark, owner of Maggie's Farm,
has sold at the Farmer's Market for 15 years and is an example of the apparent
trend with Lawrence farmers. She said she used to be certified organic but isn't
anymore because of the cost. Clark said she grows by the same standards and
gets the same prices for her produce as if it were certified.
There's an element of trust that's established between the customer and grower," Clark said. "They know my practices and that's good enough for them."
